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article number 710
article date 03-29-2018
copyright 2018 by Author else SaltOfAmerica
Our Technology, 1922 - Part 3-C: Autos - Owner Tips & Gadgets
by Various Popular Science Magazine Writers

From issues of Popular Science Monthly, 1922.

* * *

How to Retread Your Own Auto Tires

By L. B. Robbins

THE rubber on an automobile tire acts as a waterproof coating and a protection to the fabric against wear. When the rubber over the tread has worn away, water can enter and rot the fabric, and friction with the road will tear it apart and cause premature blowouts. That is the reason for retreading; it prolongs the life of the tire, provided there are no weak spots in the side walls or bead.

But retreading is somewhat expensive when done professionally. As a substitute, the following cheap home method will give excellent results.

Take the tire before the tread is badly worn through, inflate it to full pressure, and clean it off thoroughly with gasoline. Then sandpaper it as if preparing to patch an inner tube. Wash it a second time with gasoline.

Next, unroll a strip of patch rubber, which is nearly pure gum rubber and may be bought in pieces 24 in. long by 3 in. wide. Lay it on a board and with a sharp knife cut it into two strips 1 1/2 in. wide and 24 in. long. Apply a good coat of self-curing patch cement, rubbing it well over the edges of the rubber. Then let it nearly dry.

When the cement is tacky, pick up the strip with both hands and lay it lengthwise in the exact middle of the tread. Pat it gently from end to end with a smooth piece of board until every portion is in perfect contact with the tire.

Treat a second piece of rubber in the same manner and apply to the tread, butting the end against one end of the piece previously applied. Continue this until the whole circumference of the tire is retreaded. If there are any visible breaks between the abutting sections of rubber, fill them in with some good tire “dough” or putty, which will self-vulcanize and make the retread endless.

When completed, lower the tire to the floor and slowly push the car backward and forward several times to press the retread firmly on the tire and to eliminate any possible air bells. Jack up the wheel again and leave it there several hours before using.

Attaching the strips with cement.
Strips in place.

The tire in the photograph, as well as another one on the same car, were retreaded in this manner and have been in constant road service for over three months. The retread has not yet worn through. Needless to say, when it does show signs of wearing, it will be torn off and a new one substituted.

Two pieces of patch rubber will just cover one 30 by 3 1/2 in. tire when prepared as directed at a cost of about 75 cents. Isn’t it worth trying.

- - -

[A tire-retreading expert who read this article remarked that most men in that business would say Mr. Robbins’ feat was impossible, but that he assuredly would try the method himself on several tires. The surprising part is that nearly pure stock stays so well in place and wears so long as it did in this experiment.—THE EDITOR.]

A Variety of Devices that Will Help You Solve Your Motor Problems

Every gasket needed in the usual run of repairs, in plain sight and assorted by sizes, saves time in the busy garage.

Gasket assortment.

Internal cylinder pressure in gas-engines is recorded on a revolving drum by a piston acting against a coiled spring.

Cylinder pressure recorder.

Overcharging storage batteries is prevented by a patented device by which the rate of charging can be regulated from the driver’s seat. The connections are such that the ammeter indicates the amount of current flowing into the battery.

Battery charge regulator.

Compressed-air grease-guns can be made from a two-quart Mason fruit-jar by soldering two metal tubes into the screw-cap.

Compressed-air grease-gun.

A bolt sliding into a lug on the steering-wheel, locked by a four-number combination, makes theft impossible.

Steering wheel lock.

A right-angled valve extension allows tires mounted on solid steel wheels to be inflated from the outside in the usual way.

Right-angled valve extension.

New lock for spare tires prevents theft by a metal barrel that fits over the nut on the stud of the tire-carrier.

Spare tire lock.

Illuminated signs on the rear operated by push-buttons on the steering-wheel gives the car behind warning of your next move.

Signs on rear of car.

All the instruments usually placed on the dash can be mounted on the steering-wheel, where they are always under the driver’s eye.

Steering wheel instruments.

Geared to the wheel, the searchlight always illuminates the path directly ahead of the car, permitting the driver to give her undivided attention to the road during night driving.

Searchlight geared to steering.

Complete light control from a compact keyboard obviates driving with one hand while groping about the dash for the right switch.

Compact light controls.

If You Need Help when You Overhaul Your Car

POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY publishes each month two pages of new and improved attachments and accessories designed to bring the old car up to date and to give the new car that touch of individuality that distinguishes it from other automobiles of its kind and makes it indisputably “your car.”

Remember our Service Department. If you have questions concerning your car that you would like to have answered by an expert, write to our Automobile Editor. Helpful answers are given to all inquiries; see page 79.

Photos © Keystone View Company.

* * *

The forged steel arm is woven between the three pedals and locked around the brake-pedal, making any movement of the car impossible.

Pedal lock.

If the car is moved while the device is locked, the piston is depressed and sounds a klaxon horn at every turn of the wheel.

Klaxon horn alarm.

The cleaner attached to a foot-board is placed outside the car and a tube carried into the car. A swiveling nozzle head enables any part of the upholstery to be reached.

Foot-board mounted vacuum cleaner.

Attached to the running-board the unit shown above carries extra water, oil, and gas. A spout in the tank does away with spattering and wastage.

Running-board container.

Here is a tool for home garage or small shop. The wing-nuts clamp the bearing, while the cutting edge smooths the surface.

Bearing cutter.

If the accelerator rod becomes worn and drops out of place, a paper-clip wound around the ball-and-socket joint will effect a temporary repair.

Emergency accelerator rod holder.

Touch a button and the lid flies open revealing a receptacle for the ashes and a supply of matches. It can be installed on any dash.

Button-release ash tray.

A pocket tool with a peculiar head to loosen the carbon and a file to clean out the center of the plug.

Pocket spark plug cleaner.

The lower end is screwed into the spark-plug bushing, and the gage at the upper end registers compression pressure, piston-ring fit, and general condition of valves.

Compression tester.

By pressing on the plunger with the thumb, the metallic fingers at the opposite end open to grasp inaccessible nuts.

Nut grabber.

Write to Us About Your Motor Troubles

If You Have a Motor- Truck or Automobile Problem, Let the Automobile Editor Solve It.

To Increase Gasoline Mileage

Q.—How can I get the maximum gasoline mileage?—B. C. M., Albany, N. Y.

A.—Gasoline economy depends on small things, as does economy in business or anywhere else.
◦ The first essential is an engine with tight valves and pistons.
◦ Next to that is the use of an economical carburetor adjusted to give a rather lean mixture.
◦ The car should roll freely and the brakes should not drag, nor should clutch-slipping be tolerated.
◦ The advance of the spark should come in for careful attention. It should be advanced just enough to give maximum power. No more and no less.
◦ There should be no leaks in the fuel system.
◦ Finally you should have a measuring stick or a gage that shows the tank capacity in gallons and should see that whenever you purchase gasoline you get full measure.

Treatment for Worn Cylinders

Q.—I have a 1917 car with cylinders that are worn badly at the top. Would you advise lapping them?—S. E. W., Mt. Carmel, Illl.

A.—You will find reboring much more satisfactory and the chances are it will not cost any more, inasmuch as you plan to dismantle your engine anyhow.

Steel versus Wooden Wheels

Q.—Are one-piece transmission bands for Fords satisfactory? I refer to the type that can be attached without riveting. Are steel wheels satisfactory? I am told that they are harder on tires and bearings than wooden wheels, because their resiliency is less.—M. A. F., Broken Bow, Neb.

A.—The Ford transmission band which you have in mind is undoubtedly the type that replaces all three bands commonly employed, and that may be put in place without removing any of the mechanism. We have not had the opportunity of testing these bands, but we have made frequent inquiries of users, and the reports invariably have been satisfactory. In addition to their ease of replacement, an important advantage claimed for them is the fact that they will not chatter.

Steel wheels are not noticeably harder on tires or bearings than are wooden wheels. After all, the difference in resilience of the two types is small, and the effect of this difference of resilience is still smaller.

Differences in Motors

Q.—I am planning to build an electric car, and would like to know whether the Ford running-gear would be satisfactory. How powerful an electric motor shall I require, and what is the difference between electric motors built for heavy loads and for common loads?—G. H. M., Norwich, Conn.

A.—The Ford running-gear will be quite satisfactory. It is light, cheap, and simple. A 2 1/2-h.p. electric motor is ample for running a rebuilt Ford 20 to 25 miles an hour.

In asking the difference between an electric motor built for heavy loads and common loads, we believe that what you were thinking of is the difference between industrial motors and motors such as are used on railroads. The latter are almost invariably series wound, where industrial motors are shunt wound, assuming in both cases that direct current is employed. You should obtain a series-wound motor for your car.

Keep Your Oil Reservoir Full

Q.—How often should oil be put Into the engine?—O. H. H.. Hudson, N. Y.

A.—More engine trouble is caused by lack of oil than anything else. It is a common occurrence for an engine to be operated until the oil reservoir is nearly dry. With good luck this can be done without burning out a bearing, but it is a great risk to take, and even if a bearing is not melted, it is likely that the engine has suffered nevertheless. Probably the life of the bearings has been shortened or perhaps the cylinders and pistons have been glazed and scored enough to considerably hasten the need for reboring and new pistons.

Get into the habit of putting some oil into the engine every morning, even if it is only half a pint. By following this rule, the oil reservoir will never be very far from full.

Just What You Want for Your Car Perhaps It Is Here

Popular Science Monthly, 1922: Car needs and advice page. Insets follow.

If the automobile strikes a pedestrian, the shock drops this fender to the ground, preventing the person who is struck from falling under the wheels. The fender may be dropped by the driver of the car.

Pedestrian friendly bumper.

Overalls, or coverings, to protect the highly finished enamel of the automobile body while undergoing repairs, represent the latest form of “service” in the up-to-date garage. The covers are equipped with springs that snap over hoods, fenders, and doors.

Car finish covering.

This box of drawn steel protects an inner tube. After the box is locked, a few pounds of air is forced into the tube through the projecting valve-stem.

Spare inner tube box.

Particles of gasoline from the carburetor strike the distributor’s corrugated surface, break up, and are vaporized thoroughly, increasing the power-return a gallon.

Gasoline vaporizor.

A spraying nozzle attached to the air line facilitates cleaning the engine with kerosene.

Kerosene cleaner sprayer.

A vacuum motor swings this rubber squeegee across the wind-shield, automatically keeping it clear in wet or foggy weather.

Vacuum powered windshield wiper.

An oilcan with a long spout and a pump attachment will force the oil into locations difficult to reach, such as the cone of the clutch.

Oil can nozzle extender.

Flat springs, covered with felt keep the windows from rattling.

Anti-rattle spring.

Neat in appearance, this lock on the crankshaft prevents any one except the owner from starting the car. Breaking the lock automatically disables the engine.

Crankshaft lock.

Baffle-plates that keep the oil from the firing-points of this new spark-plug prevent fouling. The plug is screwed into the cylinder in the usual way. A priming-cup is provided for cold weather.

Spark plug baffle-plates.

Spotlights placed inside the car are easier to reach, and in addition eliminate side glare or light on the windshield that might interfere with vision of the road in night driving.

Inside-windshield spotlight.

“How I Keep Down Motor Car Expenses”

Readers, in Prize Winning Letters, Tell from Experience How You Can Cut Fuel and Repair Costs to Save Dollars.

By F. A. Cuffe, New York City, Winner of the First Prize.

YOU have all seen the motorist who has that uncanny faculty of always having his car ready when it is wanted. He is the fellow who really enjoys motoring. I have merely stolen his method of working, which amounts to this—"the man who anticipates trouble is better off than the man who simply remedies it after it occurs."

The following ideas will show you why my car is ready to go on a long trip any day of the year.

The first place to look for fuel wastes is at the carburetor. I adjust the carburetor to give the leanest possible mixture consistent with satisfactory operation.

Examine All Cells

Again, if the ignition system is not right, fuel will be wasted. Many a driver decides that his battery doesn’t need additional water after he has examined the first cell he happens to look into. But I examine all the cells, for it very often happens that one cell will be in bad condition or that it may be cracked so that it will require more water than the rest.

And after cleaning and adjusting the spark plugs I use a jeweler’s eyeglass to inspect the porcelains for elusive cracks that often escape unnoticed with the naked eye.

The valve system must also be carefully watched or it will be a prolific source of fuel waste when the valves are not seating properly.

The only way to make sure about tire mileage is to record it. I do this on a card or a slip of paper or write on the wall of the garage. When I put on a tire, I set down its number and the mileage record when it goes into service. If it comes off for a time, I make a record of the mileage to date and a new record when it goes on again.

I keep the rubber hose connection between the radiator and the cylinder jacket outlet and the pump connections covered with shellac to keep them waterproof and impervious to oil and grease. I never let the tires stand in pools of oil on the garage floor. Oil rots the rubber.

Often mud and small stones will get into the air spaces between the cells of the radiator. I remove this mud and tightly wedged stones by directing the stream of my hose through the cells from the inside.

To clean the inside of the radiator of rust and deposits, I pour through a hot solution of soda and water, instead of scraping.
I have found that by removing stained and dirty running boards the covering can be made to look like new simply by wiping with a clean rag saturated with kerosene. Floor boards also can be cleaned in this way.

Car is a Friend

My friend next door invariably greets his car when he opens his garage door with—“Well, how are you this morning, old boy?” Somehow the spirit of that man gets into his car, for he has the least trouble with wear and tear. Car kindness means car service and car service means dollar saving.

“After cleaning and adjusting the spark plugs, I use a jeweler’s eyeglass to inspect the porcelains for cracks”

“I Allow No One but Myself to Work on My Car”

By W. B. Bennett, Honesdale, Pa., Winner of the Second Prize.

DURING the ten years that I have been driving cars my costs have been only for tires, gasoline, oil, grease, distilled water, polishes, and painting. I have always driven these cars myself and allow no one else to do any work on them.

I believe that this freedom from trouble and expense is due to giving attention to the following vital factors: 1. Ignition, starting, and lighting. 2. Carburetion. 3. Lubrication. 4. Tires.

To keep down expenses on the first item, I:
◦ Inspect the ignition system daily, with especial care of the interrupter and distributor, making sure that all connections are tight.
◦ Every month I clean and set the spark plugs.
◦ On the starting system I check up the battery every two weeks, filling with distilled water if necessary, tighten battery supports and all connections, inspect battery wires to the starter and to the frame ground and see that the commutator on the starting motor is clean and not cutting.
◦ On the lighting system, I check up all connections once a month, making sure that the “cutcut” works properly and does not stick.
◦ It is especially important that wires and connections exposed to the weather be looked after.

I have avoided a lot of trouble by equipping my cars with carburetors of a certain non-adjustable type. Every three months, I clean the gas tank and the line, look over the vacuum feed and the float needle valve. I drain the carburetor about once a week.

Lubrication I consider to be the most important of all items to keep down car maintenance. Every morning I lubricate the ignition system, and every day I give a slight turn to every chassis grease cup. I give a few drops of oil here and there where needed, especially the spring leaves.

Every 1000 miles I change the crankcase oil, and every three months I change the transmission and differential.

In caring for tires, I check inflation every day. Temperature changes make a lot of difference. I even sometimes let out a little air on a very hot day to lower the tire pressure due to heat expansion. And I have a little vulcanizer with which I repair all small cuts before they cause trouble.

Car Kindness Means Dollar Saving

“YOU’D treat a horse well, wouldn’t you? “Why, then, should not the same condition exist between a man and his automobile?

“Who shall say that a properly cared for, a properly loved automobile may not have something that is akin to intelligence?

“Car kindness means car service, and car service means dollar saving.”

Car kindness: inspection, cleaning and adjustment.

A Real Desire to Save Must Come First

By R. A. Houston, Honorable Mention

THERE are three absolute requisites to driving an automobile economically. The driver must have a fair idea of the physics of an automobile motor and chassis, since it is impossible to understand action and results without understanding the fundamental causes; he should be at least an amateur mechanic in order to make his own small repairs, and, last, he should be slightly what is commonly known as “tight.”

Unless he has this last qualification, the other two are of slight importance in economical operation. To save, one must think, and thinking, in many cases, is such a task that it must be forced; hence the “close” man will think much more about the cost of his car than the easy spender.

Last spring I won a county wide gasoline consumption contest covering a period of two weeks and for a minimum distance of 500 miles. I used ordinary gasoline, and during the two weeks I increased my mileage to the gallon by one fourth.

My first preparation for this contest was to see that the car was in good shape, that the brakes did not drag, that the valves were seating properly, that the motor was clean of carbon, the muffler clean and that there was no back pressure on the motor. I oiled every working part and adjusted the wheel bearings, and last of all I pumped the tires to their required pressure.

Those two weeks, while I drove, I thought always about gasoline. I never stopped behind a street car without turning off the motor, and I took advantage of every incline to use the clutch. When I wanted to stop, I turned off the motor several rods ahead of the stopping place. Now I do most of these things automatically and my gas consumption is less than that of most of my friends who drive cars like mine.

If you want good mileage, you have to go after it. It takes more than a lean mixture in your carburetor. It takes a desire strong enough to make you do the things that will save.

- - -

TO drive an automobile economically, the driver should be slightly what is commonly known as ‘tight.’ He must hesitate—and it must hurt—every time he spends a dollar; for if it doesn’t hurt, he will spend many dollars without
wondering how they could have been saved. To save, one must think about costs. Hence the ‘close man’ will think more about his car.”—R. A. Houston.

Do You Oil All Places that Need It?

By L. R. Fritz, Honorable Mention

I FOLLOW a schedule of regular oiling and inspection. This plan keeps down expenses by saving excessive wear on parts and by discovering the little repair stitch which, taken in time, saves nine dollars.

The Ford lubricating chart indicates about 20 things that should be oiled each 200 miles. Actually, more than twice this number need this frequent attention. When touring, I oil these things and turn up the grease cups at the end of the day’s run or before beginning the next day’s run. When at home I oil them a little oftener.

Under the hood I oil (7 places): timer pull rod, 2; carburetor pull rod, 2; timer, 1; fan, 1; steering gear grease cup, half turn.

Front end (12 places): spindles, 2; connecting rod, 2; steering gear connecting rod, 2; crank, 1; spring hangers, 4; springs.

Under the floor (9 places): hand brake lever, 2; brake pull rods, 2; control shaft bearings, 2; speed lever, 1; 2 grease cups, half turn each.

Rear end (13 places): brake rod, 2; supports, 2; spring hangers, 4; hub brake cam shaft, 2; grease cups, half turn each, 2; springs. This is a total of 41 places.

Besides the 200 mile oilings there are lubricating items which are needed less frequently and which, with adjustment items, are kept track of by means of a mileage chart tacked up in the garage.

Believe In Your Car

By J. Edgar Mitchell, Honorable Mention

I HAVE my local Service station examine my car once every month. I avoid changing drivers and never drive over 30 miles an hour unless absolutely necessary.

I always specify the name of the oil that is most suitable for my motor, and get the amount that it requires. I never overload my car, and I believe in my car, my service station, and my instruction book.

Is Yours a “Pleasure Car”?

These New Tools and Fittings Add Joy to Motoring.

Copper tubing for conducting gasoline or oil may be flanged with this tool without being removed. One jaw is split for three sizes of tubing.

Flanging tool with split jaw.

No matter how heavy the automobile or motor truck may be, this wrecking car is able to lift and tow it. The car is equipped with a power winch adaptable for general hoisting.

Car equipped with a power winch adaptable for general hoisting.

This new combination heater valve and tuning valve will either lead the hot exhaust gases into the car’s heater or serve as a muffler cut-out when adjusting the carburetor.

Heater and tuning valve placed between exhaust manifold and muffler.

A new electrical heating device, designed to keep the engine and the radiator warm during cold weather, consists of a T-shaped casting that is connected with the water pipe between the pump and the radiator. The resistance coil may be supplied with current from any light socket.

Electrical heating device keeps the engine and the radiator warm.

Press the plunger of this dust cap pressure gage and if the cap rises to a fixed mark, the tire is properly inflated.

Dust cap pressure gage.

When the headlights are dimmed on meeting another car, the auxiliary lamp shown above illuminates the side of the road.

Auxiliary lamps illuminate when headlights dimmed.

The spark gaps, one for each cylinder, conveniently placed under the hood, produce hotter sparks at the spark plug and insure proper ignition.

Spark gaps produce hotter sparks at the plugs.

By means of colored lights, this electric dashboard device, shown with covered removed, indicates when gas, water, or oil is low.

Low gas, water and oil lights.

Automobile owners will find much use for the electric trouble lamp have shown above. It has an electromagnet in that space and will claim to any higher or steal surface of the current is on.

Electric trouble lamp with magnetized base.

When the sliding the hammer of this tool is pulled back sharply, to look at the end of the ride will loosen any tops to that cotter pin.

Sliding hammer, cotter pin puller.

Write the Automobile Editor About Your Motor Troubles

Why Engine Lacks Power

Q.—My engine lacks power, although the compreston is good and the carburetor is in correct adjustment. I recently had the carbon removed.—R. F. C., New York, N. Y.

A.—There are many reasons why your engine may not give full power. If battery ignition is used, see that the battery is not low; if magneto ignition, see that the magnets are not weak. The breaker points should make flat contact and be in proper adjustment. The spark should be properly timed and the spark-advancing mechanism should be inspected, since lack of power may be due to a late spark. Low power may be caused by so simple a defect as a throttle that does not open all the way.

Recharging Magnets

Q.—Can I recharge magnets on my magneto with the alternating current?—A. M. H., Falls, Pa.

A. You cannot recharge your magnets with alternating current, and you should not attempt the work even with direct current. It is better for you to send the magnets to some shop where they are equipped to do this work.

When to Use Oversize Tube

Q.—Is it necessary to use a 33 by 4 Inch tube with a 32 by 34 Inch cord tire?—A. A., Rochester, N. Y.

A.—Whether a 33 by 4 inch tube should be used or not depends on the size of the cord tire. Most cord tires are considerably over size, and therefore it is frequently advisable to use an oversize tube, as you suggest. The best way to determine the size of tube required is to measure the tire. If it measures 33 by 4 inches, use a 33 by 4 inch tube. On the other hand, if it measures 32 by 3 1/2 inches, use a tube of this size.

Ten New Tips for Your Car

Pictures © K. & H.

AUTO THIEVES, BEWARE: Policeman-Inventor Foils Auto Thieves

In inventing the safety device illustrated below, a noted police official has successfully matched his ingenuity against the craftiness of the automobile thief. The device is placed permanently on one of the front mudguards. To Jock the car, the driver, before leaving, removes the round disk at the top, puts a red diamond-shaped disk in its place and locks it. This makes the engine inoperative and tampering with the device starts an alarm siren.

Anti-auto-theft device leaves engine inoperative.


When placed between carburetor and intake manifold, the hot wires of this electrical device vaporize the gasoline for instant starting.

Electrical gasoline vaporizer.


“Fluttering” of the throttle is eliminated by this cushion accelerator equipped with an air cylinder which operates over a piston.

Air cylinder cushions accelerator.


Simplicity and security are advantages of this lock for the auto disk-wheel.

DIAGRAM: Disk-wheel lock.


Two heavy coilsprings are the feature of this shock-absorbing bumper.

Shock-absorbing bumper with coilsprings.


The oiling cup lubricates spring joints and other parts of the chassis. Wicking carries the oil.

DIAGRAM: Lubrication cup showing spring-closed oil hole and wick feed.


Through the hollow center bolt, oil is forced between the leaves of the automobile springs.

Automatic spring oiler showing oil slot, hollow bolt and nut and the steel inserts.


This heating element, attached to the Ford engine in place of the lower hose, keeps the water from freezing.

Heating element with extension cord place on Ford engine lower hose.


Strips of spring steel hold this jiffy jumper in place while you repair your car.

Jiffy jumper keeps you clean.


By an arrangement of four panels the driver, while shielded, obtains a view unobstructed by glass.

Arrangement of window four panels.

Has Your Motor-Car a Bureau Drawer?

“BUREAU drawers,” and a convenient place to stow a pair of suitcases are two of the latest refinements of a custom-built touring-car of recent construction. With additional luggage space in back of the front seat, tourists no longer need choose between two evils—suitcases lying on the floor or dusty clothes resulting from carrying cases on the runningboard.

Two specially made suitcases fit into a recess behind the front seat. Above them, just below the top of the seat, are the two drawers, fastened with a cylinder lock.

Bureau drawer gives additional luggage space in back of the front seat.

Innovative Ideas

This miniature traffic cop fastened just above the taillight raises its right or left arm to signal which way the car will turn.

Miniature traffic cop.

Any motor camper can reduce the bulk of his outfit by means of a convertible auto body that can be transformed into comfortable sleeping quarters for two. A door cut in the rear of the body drops to the level of the car floor, the rear seat moves forward—and you have a roomy roadside bedroom.

Sleeping quarters for two.

Take the baby with you. He can ride in comfort and safety in this newly designed high chair strapped to the auto seat.

Baby seat.

Stretched about the tire and held fast by cement to the center of the tire surface, this new tread is good for 1000 miles.

Tire tread tape.
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