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article number 499
article date 11-03-2015
copyright 2015 by Author else SaltOfAmerica
Soups: From Oxtail and Marrow-balls to Bisque of Lobster and Salmon Chowder . . . California 1906
by Ladies of San Rafael, California

From the 1906 San Rafael Cook Book, "Compiled by the Ladies of San Rafael, California."

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Put meat to cook in cold water; simmer slowly not less than 5 hours, skimming occasionally.

A piece of liver is an addition; or cooked meat or cooked bones will give the rich brown color without the use of burnt sugar.


Melt 1 cup white sugar in a saucepan till It Is dark; add slowly 1 cup of cold water, stirring briskly, and boll till it thickens. Keep in large mouthed bottle. Roast onions are also used.


When hot add the well-beaten white of an egg, and as the soup boils up, after stirring in the egg, skim well.

All milk soups are improved by the addition of cream, and a few drops of Worcestershire, Tabasco, celery salt or extract, and onion extract.

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BOUILLON—Mrs. L A. Lancel.

Take from 4 to 5 pounds of beef, cover with cold water, add salt. When boiled, skim and add:

- 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper,
- 2 carrots,
- 2 turnips,
- 2 leeks,
- celery and
- parsley;

Boll from 4 to 5 hours, strain, and set aside. When to be used, roast one good sized onion dry, in the oven; stick whole cloves In It; put in the stock and boil 10 minutes. If liked, add half a glass of sherry.

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SOUPSTOCK—Mrs. Orey J. Short.

- beef shank bone, containing marrow,
- piece of mutton neck and
- joint of veal.

Cut In small pieces and soak for several hours in enough water to cover.

- stick of cinnamon,
- couple of cloves,
- cup of barley,
- bay leaf,
- little brown sugar,
- pinch of oatmeal,
- mixed herbs and
- chopped vegetables.

Place over a slow fire and simmer all day. Strain, season and put In a crock. Keep in cool place and It will keep several days.

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Chop fine 1/2 cup of marrow good and fresh, and rub with it 1 cup of flour and a saltspoon of salt.

Wet with sufficient cold water to make like pastry, and roll into tiny balls like small marbles. Drop Into boiling soup, boil 15 to 20 minutes, and serve.

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RAVIOLA—Mrs. W. J. Wickman.

Make a paste of:
2 cups flour,
2 eggs,
1/2 teaspoon salt, and
water enough to make a stiff dough.

Knead well and roll out into a sheet as thick as thin cardboard; cut it in half. Place one teaspoon of farce in regular rows on the paste, 2 inches apart, moisten the upper part of paste and place carefully on top of the lower piece, pressing the two together with the fingers or with a raviola rolling pin, forming small cushions between.

Cut through the rows down and across, with a pastry knife in such a way as to leave pieces about 2 inches square. Place the raviola on a board covered with a clean piece of muslin near the stove and dry thoroughly.

When needed poach them a few at a time in clear bouillon for ten minutes. When all are done place in a tureen and pour soup over raviola. Add a few teaspoons of grated parmesan cheese and serve.

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Take one cup cold chicken, veal or fish, chopped very fine and rub to a paste with one calf or sheep brain parboiled.

- one cup bread crumbs which have been soaked in milk and squeezed dry,
- one teaspoon onion juice,
- 1/2 teaspoon salt,
- a grating of nutmeg,
- dash of Cayenne and
- thyme

Rub well together. Have ready 1 cup spinach (which has been boiled, drained and chopped). Stir the spinach into the paste, add yolk of 2 eggs, and beat for ten minutes.

Ernest Kloepka, Dealer in Choice Family Groceries. Corner of First And E Streets, San Rafael, California. Telephone Red 825.

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WHITE SOUP—Mrs. Grandjean.

five lbs. veal (shin),
five pts. cold water,
1 tablespoon salt,
1 onion,
6 pepper corns,
a little celery,
1 pt. cream or mIlk,
1 tablespoon butter,
2 tablespoons flour,
1 egg.

Wipe meat, put all ingredients except cream, butter, flour, and egg, into soup kettle, bring to a boil quickly, then cook slowly several hours, skimming when needed; strain, add lemon peel, salt and pepper (white).

Cook butter and flour together, add to soup stock, beat cream, add to stock, beat egg put Into tureen, strain in the soup carefully and serve with browned crackers.

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OXTAIL SOUP—Miss H. Pregge.

Separate the joints of 2 oxtails; put them into a frying pan with a little butter and fry them nice and brown.

Add 1 onion and 1 carrot and fry brown also. Then put all into a soup kettle with about 3 qts. of water, let simmer slowly, add:
- few cloves and
- blade of mace, also
- a little bailey.

Cook well. If desired add a little sherry wine just before sending to the table.

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OXTAIL SOUP—Mrs. H. Decourtieux.

- 1 qt. soup stock,
- 2 oxtails,
- 1 pt. boiling water,
- 1 tablespoon of beef extract,
- 3/4 diced carrot,
- 3/4 diced onion,
- 3/4 diced celery,
- 3/4 diced turnip,
- 3/4 diced potato,
- 1 teaspoon salt,
- 1/2 cup Madeira wIne,
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice,
- 1/2 of a green pepper,
- 6 stoned olIves,
- 2 tablespoons butter,
- 1/4 cup flour.

Cut the oxtails Into inch pieces, wash, drain, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; dredge with the flour and fry In butter ten minutes.

Then add the oxtails to the stock and simmer one and a half hours, add the boiling water and the beef extract.

Parboil all the vegetables together twenty minutes and add them. Simmer until vegetables are tender, then add salt, wine and lemon juice.

Cut the olives in small rings and place them In tureen, pour in soup and serve hot.

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GUMBO SOUP—Mrs. Thos. S. Bonneau.

- 1 spring chicken,
- 1 small slice of ham,
- 1 heaping tablespoon lard,
- 1 qt. okra,
- 1 or 2 large tomatoes,
- 1 spoon of flour,
- a little boiled rice.

Cut up chicken in small pieces, also the ham. Put into a pot with a tablespoon of hot lard.

When fried, add tomatoes and flour; cover the whole with water and let it simmer over a slow fire one hour.

Then add okra cut up fine, simmer another hour; place a little bolted rice in the center of a soup plate, add some gumbo. Many persons In New Orleans add Chili pepper.

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Put in a saucepan:
- 2 tablespoons good butter,
- 1 sliced onion,
- celery,
- leek and
- carrot.

Allow to fry without browning; add 2 tablespoons flour, fry again, then add 1 gal. water, stirring well till it boils.

Put in fat fowl and boll 2 1/2 hours. Strain soup, season with salt and little white pepper and, if liked, a little nutmeg.

Add 1 pt. cream and small piece of fresh butter. Serve with croutons.

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- 1 1/2 pints strong chicken broth or stock,
- 1/2 cup barley,
- 1 cup cream,
- yolks of 4 eggs.

Flavor with celery, lemon or onion.

Wash the barley thoroughly, and cook slowly until soft enough to rub through a sieve. Put it into the strained chicken broth, and cook half an hour.

Then add the yolks of 4 eggs, well beaten. Be sure and pour the broth on to the eggs, and not the eggs into the broth.

Lastly add one cup of cream. Do not boil after the cream is added. If too thick, add a little hot milk to the right consistency, and salt to taste.

San Rafael Elec. Constn. Co. Electric Supplies, Electric House Wiring, Electric Motors, Electric Bells. Private Telephones. 710 Fourth Street, San Rafael, California. Telephone Red 97.

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This receipt is also good for cauliflower, potato, or asparagus.

If you have roast beef bones left from the day before, break them up and put on to boil with soup greens and a head of celery, (If you have no bones, and do not wish to buy fresh soup meat, water alone will do, but It will not be as savory.)

Add some young onions, 5 or 6, a tablespoon of butter, and some flour dissolved in water until smooth, and when the soup is boiling add the flour, salt, pepper, a little mace, and the top slice of a lime for a few minutes only, as it will make the soup bitter if left longer.

For potato soup, leave out the mace and lime but add a pinch of allspice instead.

After the celery is quite soft strain it through a fine sieve, add a gill of cream thinned out in as much milk, add the yolk of 1 egg, all beaten and allowed to come to a boil.

Serve with fried bread cut in slices. For asparagus or cauliflower, cut off the heads and boil only the stalks before straining, as they have to be all mashed through the strainer; then put in the heads and flower, and let boil in the soup until tender.

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Fry 1 cup of rice in 1 tablespoon of butter until the rice turns white, then add 2 qts. of boiling milk, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally until done.

Pass through a fine wire sieve by mashing with a spoon. Season with salt and grated nutmeg; or instead of the nutmeg, cut up a small onion, and fry with the rice.

Add 1 cup of cream just in time to warm but not to boil, before serving. Serve with croutons. Part stock or chicken broth may be used instead of all milk. If too thick, thin with milk to the right consistency.

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MOCK TURTLE SOUP—Mrs. Herbert Kellogg.

Have a good stock. Boil 1 qt. of dark beans in water until tender, and mash through colander.

Add a pinch of cloves, allspice and black peppers bruised and tied in a cloth; add the stock.

Chop 3 hard boiled eggs and place in the tureen; pour the soup over, and add 1/2 glass of sherry at the last. Salt to taste.

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2 cups of black beans boiled until tender. Mash through a colander, and add to 1 qt. of rich stock; when hot, strain through a sieve; season with allspice, cloves, pepper and salt.

Just before serving, add a cup of cream. This is far more delicate than where pork is used. Fry squares of bread in butter until they are a rich brown, and add last.

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Put 1 cup of white pea beans to cook, and when tender mash through a colander and add milk until of the right consistency.

Season with salt and pepper, and thyme fresh from the garden is preferable to the powdered. Tablespoon of butter and 1 cup of cream. Serve with croutons.

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- 4 large onions cut up,
- 6 ozs. butter,
- salt,
- cayenne,
- stock,
- milk,
- yolks of 4 eggs,
- 1/4 loaf of French bread cut iIn very thin slices and dried, and
- 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese.

Slowly stew the onions in the butter for 1 hour, stirring frequently and being careful not to burn. Add salt, pepper, cayenne, and stock, and cook one hour; add 1/3 as much milk as stock.

Have in the tureen the bread and cheese; beat up the eggs and mix with them a ladleful of the soup. Pour this on the bread, cover close for five minutes, let stand, add the rest of the soup, and serve at once.

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PUREE OF PEAS—Mrs. C. A. Thayer.

Shell and wash peas (1 pt. after they are shelled) put them into 3 pts. boiling water with 1/2 small onion.

Cook uncovered after coming to a boil until peas are quite soft. Rub through sieve with back of wooden spoon. Put this back into saucepan, add 3 cups milk, salt and pepper to taste and put on stove.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter and add 1 tablespoon flour (off stove) rub until smooth, and cook until it froths. Stir this Into boiling soup. Cook one or two minutes and serve.

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Wash carefully 2 qts. of spinach; boll until tender in salt water, drain and drop into cold water to heighten color. Put through a potato ricer.

Have ready 1 qt. of thin white sauce made with 2 scant tablespoons butter and 3 tablespoons flour and 1 qt. milk; add this sauce gradually to the pulp, stirring and rubbing that it may be smoothly blended.

Put on the fire and stir almost constantly, unless in double boiler, until it boils; season highly and strain. Return to fire and just before serving add 1/2 cup of whipped cream.

F. P. Grady & Co. Dealers in Wood, Coal, Hay and Grain. Prompt Delivery. Corner of Second and A Streets, San Rafael, California. Telephone Black 1571.

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Cook 1 bunch of oyster plant in as little water as possible and when tender pass through puree strainer.

Add to the pulp:
- 1 qt. of milk,
- 1 pt. of stock,
- 1 teaspoon corn starch,
- salt and pepper to taste.

A little cream added last is an improvement. Can be made of all milk, but some stock is preferable.

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- 1 qt. cooked tomatoes,
- 2 qts. sweet milk,
- 1 level tablespoon cornstarch,
- salt,
- butter,
- paprika or white pepper,
- 1 teaspoon soda.

Strain the tomatoes and put on to heat; when boiling put in soda, then add the hot milk, sugar, salt, pepper, and butter.

Cook the cornstarch in milk before adding tomatoes, to prevent curdling. Some prefer a little sugar added. 1 cup of cream is an improvement.

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Remove the corn from 1 can; cover with 3 cups of water; simmer for one hour; press through a sieve.

Scald 3 cups of milk; add the corn and 1 tablespoon of butter well mixed with 1 tablespoon of flour. Cook until smooth, season with salt and pepper, add 1/2 cup of cream and stir until heated.

Take from the fire, add 1 beaten egg, and serve at once. The egg or cream may be omitted, but the soup is far more delicious with the addition of both. The corn from twelve ears equals one can.

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CLAM CHOWDER—Mrs. W. F. C. Hasson.

In the kettle in which the chowder is to be made fry several slices of salt pork. When nice and brown remove, and in the gravy put 4 large potatoes and 4 onions which have been chopped; season with salt and pepper, add from 1 qt. to 3 pts. of water, and boil half an hour.

Take 1 qt. of clams or 1 can, and after cutting off the black heads, chop and put them with the broth into the kettle about 10 minutes before taking up. When ready to serve, add pilot bread broken in small pieces.

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FISH CHOWDER—Mrs. Jas. W. Cochrane.

Slice fine four good sized onions and fry a light brown in butter; cut:
- any kind of raw fish in small dice, sufficient for two cups;
- four large potatoes cut in dice,
- four crushed soda crackers;
- salt and pepper to taste.

Cover with boiling water and cook until potatoes are done. Add one cup of cream and serve.

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Put a saucepan with a good tablespoon of butter on the fire add some sliced onion, leek, celery and carrot.

Fry lightly, then cut up two live lobsters, wash well in boiling water and put also in the saucepan with a tablespoon of rice, fry again lightly and then add about 1 gal. clear white strong broth.

Let boll for about 1/2 hour, then strain and pound lobster, rice and vegetables thoroughly in a mortar; put again in saucepan and let it boil for 1/2 hour.

Then strain it again through a sieve return it to a saucepan, season with salt, cayenne, add 1 pt. sweet cream, heat thoroughly, then put a garnishing of cut-up lobster and trouffles in the tureen, pour the soup over and serve.

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SALMON CHOWDER—”FlNE”—Mrs. W. B. Bradford.

- 1 lb. can salmon,
- 1 large onion chopped fine,
- 1/2 lb. salt pork fried brown,
- 1 pt. cream or milk,
- 3 ships crackers,
- 3 large potatoes,
- salt and pepper to taste.

Remove salmon from can, strain off the liquor, break fish in small pieces with a fork. Fry onions and pork together. Place alternating layers of potatoes, pork, onions, fish and crackers in a large saucepan.

Continue the layers until the ingredients have all been used. Cover all with boiling water—season well—and simmer 20 minutes, then add cream and a lump of butter; serve very hot.

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CRAB SOUP—Mrs. Thos. Wintringham.

3 pts. rich milk,
1 1/2 tablespoon butter,
1 1/2 tablespoon flour.

Have the milk hot in a double boiler. Melt the butter in saucepan.

Cook flour with the butter and add very slowly the boiling milk. Return to the boiler then add the shredded meat of a large crab, season well, add a few drops of Tabasco and Worcester sauce.

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LENTEN SOUP—Mrs. Thos. Wintringham.

Same as crab soup, save substituting 1 pt. of picked out shrimps in place of the crab.

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Slice stale bread or the crust from sandwiches can be used, spread with lumps of butter and place in oven until crisp and brown, shaking the pan occasionally. Serve warm with soup.

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