From the 1881 book, Miss Parloa’s New Cook Book and Marketing Guide.

EDITORS NOTE: This article is decorated with drawings from the “Kitchen Furnishing” chapter.

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Fillet of Beef, Larded.

The true fillet is the tenderloin, although sometimes one will see a rib roast, boned and rolled, called a fillet. A short fillet, weighing from two and a half to three pounds (the average weight from a very large rump), will suffice for ten persons at a dinner where this is served as one course; and if a larger quantity is wanted a great saving will still be made if two short fillets are used.

They cost about two dollars, while a large one, weighing the same amount, would cost five dollars.

Fillet of beef is one of the simplest, safest and most satisfactory dishes that a lady can prepare for either her own family or guests. After a single trial she will think no more of it than of broiling a beef steak.

First, remove from the fillet, with a sharp knife, every shred of muscle, ligament and thin, tough skin. If it is not then of a good round shape, skewer it into shape. Draw a line through the centre, and lard with two rows of pork, having them meet at this line. Dredge well with salt, pepper and flour, and put, without water, in a very small pan.

Place in a hot oven for thirty minutes. Let it be in the lower part of the oven the first ten minutes, then place on the upper grate. Serve with mushroom, hollandaise or tomato sauce, or with potato balls. If with sauce, this should be poured around the fillet.

The time given cooks a fillet of any size, the shape being such that it will take half an hour for either two or six pounds. Save the fat trimmed from the fillet for frying, and the lean part for soup stock.

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Fillet of Beef a la Hollandaise.

Trim and cut the short fillet into slices about half an inch thick. Season these well with salt, and then lay in a pan with six table-spoonfuls of butter, just warm enough to be oily.

Squeeze the juice of a quarter of a lemon over them. Let them stand one hour; then dip lightly in flour, place in the double broiler, and cook for six minutes over a very bright fire.

Have a mound of mashed potatoes in the centre of a hot dish, and rest the slices against this. Pour a Hollandaise sauce around. Garnish with parsley.

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Fillet of Beef a l’ Allemand.

Trim the fillet and skewer it into a good shape. Season well with pepper and salt.

Have one egg and half a teaspoonful of sugar well beaten together; roll the fillet in this and then in bread crumbs. Bake in the oven for thirty minutes.

Serve with Allemand sauce poured around it.

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Fillet of Beef in Jelly.

Trim a short fillet, and cut a deep incision in the side, being careful not to go through to the other side or the ends. Fill this with one cupful of veal, prepared as for quenches, and the whites of three hard-boiled eggs, cut into rings. Sew up the openings, and bind the fillet into good shape with broad bands of cotton cloth.

Put in a deep stew-pan two slices of ham and two of pork, and place the fillet on them; then put in two calf’s feet, two stalks of celery and two quarts of clear stock. Simmer gently two hours and a half. Take up the fillet, and set away to cool.

Strain the stock, and set away to harden. When hard, scrape off every particle of fat, and put on the fire in a clean sauce-pan, with half a slice of onion and the whites of two eggs, beaten with four table-spoonfuls of cold water.

When this boils, season well with salt, and set back where it will just simmer for half an hour; then strain through a napkin. Pour a little of the jelly into a two-quart charlotte russe mould (half an inch deep), and set on the ice to harden.

As soon as it is hard, decorate with the egg rings. Add about three spoonfuls of the liquid jelly, to set the eggs. When hard, add enough jelly to cover the eggs, and when this is also hard, trim the ends of the fillet, and draw out the thread. Place in the centre of the mould, and cover with the remainder of the jelly.

If the fillet floats, place a slight weight on it. Set in the ice chest to harden.

When ready to serve, place the mould in a pan of warm water for half a minute, and then turn out the fillet gently upon a dish. Garnish with a circle of egg rings, each of which has a stoned olive in the centre. Put here and there a sprig of parsley.

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Alamode Beef.

- six pounds of the upper part, or of the vein, of the round of beef,
- half a pound of fat salt pork,
- three table-spoonfuls of butter,
- two onions,
- half a carrot,
- half a turnip,
- two tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
- one tablespoonfulof lemon juice,
- one heaping tablespoonful of salt,
- half a teaspoonful of pepper,
- two cloves,
- six allspice,
- a small piece of stick cinnamon,
- a bouquet of sweet herbs,
- two scant quarts of boiling water and
- four tablespoonfuls of flour.

Cut the pork in thick strips—as long as the meat is thick, and, with a large larding needle (which comes for this purpose), draw these through the meat. If you do not have the large needle, make the holes with the boning knife or the carving steel, and press the pork through with the fingers.

Put the butter in a six-quart stew-pan, and when it melts, add the vegetables, cut fine. Let them cook five minutes, stirring all the while.

Put in the meat, which has been well dredged with the flour; brown on one side, and then turn, and brown the other. Add one quart of the water; stir well, and then add the other, with the spice, herbs, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Cover tightly, and simmer gently four hours. Add the lemon juice. Taste the gravy, and, if necessary, add more salt and pepper. Let it cook twenty minutes longer.

Take up the meat, and draw the stew-pan forward, where it will boil rapidly, for ten or fifteen minutes, having first skimmed off all the fat. Strain the gravy on the beef, and serve.

This dish may be garnished with potato balls or button onions.

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Macaronied Beef.

- six pounds of beef from the upper part of the round or the vein,
- a quarter of a pound of macaroni (twelve sticks),
- half a cupful of butter,
- four large onions,
- one quart of peeled and sliced tomatoes, or a quart can of the vegetable;
- two heaping table-spoonfuls of flour,
- salt,
- pepper and
- two cloves.

Make holes in the beef with the large larding needle or the steel, and press the macaroni into them. Season with salt and pepper.

Put the butter and the onions, which have been peeled and cut fine, in a six-quart stew-pan, and stir over the fire until a golden brown; then put in the meat, first drawing the onions aside.

Dredge with the flour, and spread the top of the meat with the fried onions. Put in the spice and one quart of boiling water.

Cover tightly, and simmer slowly for three hours; then add the tomato, and cook one hour longer.

Take up the meat, and strain the gravy over it. Serve hot. The tomato may be omitted if one pint more of water and an extra table-spoonful of flour are used instead.

Always serve macaroni with this dish.

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Cannelon of Beef.

One thin slice of the upper part of the round of beef.

Cut off all the fat, and so trim as to give the piece a regular shape. Put the trimmings in the chopping tray, with a quarter of a pound of boiled salt pork and one pound of lean cooked ham.

Chop very fine; then add a speck of cayenne, one teaspoonful of mixed mustard, one of onion juice, one table-spoonful of lemon juice and three eggs.

Season the beef with salt and pepper. Spread the mixture over it, and roll up. Tie with twine, being careful not to draw too tightly.

Have six slices of fat pork fried in the braising pan. Cut two onions, two slices of carrot, and two of turnip into this, and stir for two minutes over the fire. Roll the cannelon in a plate of flour, and put it in the braising pan with the pork and vegetables. Brown slightly on all sides; then add one quart of boiling water, and place in the oven.

Cook three hours, basting every fifteen minutes. When it has been cooking two hours, add half a cupful of canned tomatoes or two fresh ones. Taste to see if the gravy is seasoned enough; if it is not, add seasoning. The constant dredging with flour will thicken the gravy sufficiently.

Slide the cake turner under the beef, and lift carefully on to a hot dish. Cut the string in three or four places with a sharp knife, and gently draw it away from the meat.

Skim off all the fat. Strain the gravy through a fine sieve on to the meat. Garnish with a border of toast or riced potatoes. Cut in thin slices with a sharp knife.

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Cannelon of Beef, No. 2.

- two pounds of the round of beef,
- the rind of half a lemon,
- three sprigs of parsley,
- one teaspoonful of salt,
- barely one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper,
- a quarter teaspoonful of a nutmeg,
- two table-spoonfuls of melted butter,
- one raw egg and
- half a teaspoonful of onion juice.

Chop meat, parsley and lemon rind very fine. Add other ingredients, and mix thoroughly. Shape into a roll, about three inches in diameter and six in length.

Roll in buttered paper, and bake thirty minutes, basting with butter and water.

When cooked, place on a hot dish, gently unroll from the paper, and serve with Flemish sauce poured over it. You may serve tomato or mushroom sauce if you prefer either.

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Beef Roulette.

Have two pounds of the upper part of the round, cut very thin.

Mix together:
- one cupful of finely-chopped ham,
- two eggs,
- one teaspoonful of mixed mustard,
- a speck of cayenne and
- three table-spoonfuls of stock or water.

Spread upon the beef, which roll up firmly and tie with soft twine, being careful not to draw too tightly, for that would cut the meat as soon as it began to cook. Cover the roll with flour, and fry brown in four table-spoonfuls of ham or pork fat. Put it in as small a sauce-pan as will hold it.

Into the fat remaining in the pan put two finely-chopped onions, and cook until a pale yellow; then add two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir three minutes longer. Pour upon this one pint and a half of boiling water.

Boil up once, and pour over the roulette; then add two cloves, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper and one heaping teaspoonful of salt.

Cover the sauce-pan, and set where it will simmer slowly for three hours. After the first hour and a half, turn the roulette over.

Serve hot, with the gravy strained over it. It is also nice to serve cold for lunch or supper. Ham force-meat balls and parsley make a pretty garnish.

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Beef Olives.

One and a half pounds of beef, cut very thin. Trim off the edges and fat; then cut in strips three inches wide and four long; season well with salt and pepper.

Chop fine the trimmings and the fat. Add:
- three table-spoonfuls of powdered cracker,
- one teaspoonful of sage and savory, mixed,
- one-fourth of a teaspoonful of pepper and
- two teaspoonfuls of salt.

Mix very thoroughly and spread on the strips of beef. Roll them up, and tie with twine. When all are done, roll in flour.

Fry brown a quarter of a pound of pork. Take it out of the pan, and put the olives in. Fry brown, and put in a small sauce-pan that can be tightly covered.

In the fat remaining in the pan put one table-spoonful of flour, and stir until perfectly smooth and brown; then pour in, gradually, nearly a pint and a half of boiling water.

Stir for two or three minutes, season to taste with salt and pepper, and pour over the olives. Cover the sauce-pan, and let simmer two hours.

Take up at the end of this time and cut the strings with a sharp knife. Place the olives in a row on a dish, and pour the gravy over them.

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Veal Olives.

These are made in the same manner, except that a dressing, like chicken dressing, is made for them.

For one and a half pounds of veal take:
- three crackers,
- half a table-spoonful of butter,
- half a teaspoonful of savory,
- one-fourth of a teaspoonful of sage,
- a teaspoonful of salt,
- a very little pepper and
- an eighth of a cupful of water.

Spread the strips with this, and proceed as for beef olives.

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Fricandelles of Veal.

- two pounds of clear veal,
- half a cupful of finely-chopped cooked ham,
- one cupful of milk,
- one cupful of bread crumbs,
- the juice of half a lemon,
- one table-spoonful of salt,
- half a teaspoonful of pepper,
- one cupful of butter,
- a pint and a half of stock,
- three table-spoonfuls of flour.

Chop the veal fine. Cook the bread crumbs and milk until a smooth paste, being careful not to burn. Add to the chopped veal and ham, and when well mixed, add the seasoning and four tablespoonfuls of the butter.

Mix thoroughly, and form into balls about the size of an egg.

Have the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and use to cover the balls. Fry these, till a light brown, in the remainder of the butter, being very careful not to burn.

Stir the three table-spoonfuls of flour into the butter that remains after the balls are fried. Stir until dark brown, and then gradually stir the stock into it. Boil for two minutes. Taste to see if seasoned enough; then add the balls, and cook very slowly for one hour.

Serve with a garnish of toast and lemon.

Fricandelles can he made with chicken, mutton, lamb and beef the only change in the above directions being to omit the ham.

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Braised Tongue.

Wash a fresh beef tongue, and, with a trussing needle, run a strong twine through the roots and end of it, drawing tightly enough to have the end meet the roots; then tie firmly.

Cover with boiling water, and boil gently for two hours; then take up and drain.

Put six table-spoonfuls of butter in the braising pan, and when hot, put in half a small carrot, half a small turnip and two onions, all cut fine. Cook five minutes, stirring all the time, and then draw to one side.

Roll the tongue in flour, and put in the pan. As soon as browned on one side, turn, and brown the other.

Add:
- one quart of the water in which it was boiled,
- a bouquet of sweet herbs,
- one clove,
- a small piece of cinnamon and
- salt and pepper.

Cover, and cook two hours in a slow oven, basting often with the gravy in the pan, and salt, pepper and flour. When it has been cooking an hour and a half, add the juice of half a lemon to the gravy.

When done, take up. Melt two tablespoonfuls of glaze, and pour over the tongue. Place in the heater until the gravy is made.

Mix one table-spoonful of corn-starch with a little cold water, and stir into the boiling gravy, of which there should be one pint. Boil one minute; then strain, and pour around the tongue.

Garnish with parsley, and serve.

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Fillets of Tongue.

Cut cold boiled tongue in pieces about four inches long, two wide and half an inch thick. Dip in melted butter and in flour.

For eight fillets put two table-spoonfuls of butter in the frying-pan, and when hot, put in the tongue. Brown on both sides, being careful not to burn.

Take up, and put one more spoonful of butter in the pan, and then one heaping teaspoonful of flour. Stir until dark brown; then add one cupful of stock, half a teaspoonful of parsley and one tablespoonful of lemon juice, or one tea-spoonful of vinegar. Let this boil up once, and then pour it around the tongue, which has been dished on thin strips of toast.

Garnish with parsley, and serve.

For a change, a table-spoonful of chopped pickles, or of capers, can be stirred into the sauce the last moment.

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Escaloped Tongue.

Chop some cold tongue—not too fine, and have for each pint:
- one table-spoonful of onion juice,
- one teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
- one heaping teaspoonful of salt,
- one teaspoonful of capers,
- one cupful of bread crumbs,
- half a cupful of stock and
- three table-spoonfuls of butter.

Butter the escalop dish, and cover the bottom with bread crumbs. Put in the tongue, which has been mixed with the parsley, salt, pepper and capers, and add the stock, in which has been mixed the onion juice. Put part of the butter on the dish with the remainder of the bread crumbs, and then bits of butter here and there.

Bake twenty minutes, and serve hot.

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Tongue in Jelly.

Boil and skin either a fresh or salt tongue. When cold, trim off the roots.

Have one and a fourth quarts of aspic jelly in the liquid state. Cover the bottom of a two-quart mould about an inch deep with it, and let it harden.

With a fancy vegetable cutter, cut out leaves from cooked beets, and garnish the bottom of the mould with them. Gently pour in three table-spoonfuls of jelly, to set the vegetables.

When this is hard, add jelly enough to cover the vegetables, and let the whole get very hard. Then put in the tongue, and about half a cupful of jelly, which should be allowed to harden, and so keep the meat in place when the remainder is added. Pour in the remainder of the jelly and set away to harden.

To serve: Dip the mould for a few moments in a pan of warm water, and then gently turn on to a dish. Garnish with pickles and parsley. Pickled beet is especially nice.

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Lambs’ Tongues in Jelly.

Lambs’ tongues are prepared the same as beef tongues. Three of four moulds, each holding a little less than a pint, will make enough for a small company, one tongue being put in each mould. The tongues can all be put on the same dish, or on two, if the table is long.

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Lambs’ Tongues, Stewed.

- six tongues,
- three heaping table-spoonfuls of butter,
- one large onion,
- two slices of carrot,
- three slices of white turnip,
- three table-spoonfuls of flour,
- one table-spoonfuls of salt,
- a little pepper,
- one quart of stock or water and
- a bouquet of sweet herbs.

Boil the tongues one hour and a half in clear water; then take up, cover with cold water, and draw off the skins.

Put the butter, onion, turnip and carrot in the stew-pan, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes; then add the flour, and cook until brown, stirring all the while.

Stir the stock into this, and when it boils up, add the tongue, salt, pepper and herbs.

Simmer gently for two hours. Cut the carrots, turnips and potatoes into cubes. Boil the potatoes in salted water ten minutes, and the carrots and turnips one hour.

Place the tongues in the centre of a hot dish. Arrange the vegetables around them, strain the gravy, and pour over all. Garnish with parsley, and serve.

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Stewed Ox Tails.

- two ox tails,
- three table-spoonfuls of butter,
- two table-spoonfuls of flour,
- one large onion,
- half a small carrot,
- three slices of turnip,
- two stalks of celery,
- two cloves,
- a pint and a half of stock or water,
- salt and pepper to taste.

Divide the tails in pieces about four inches long. Cut the vegetables in small pieces. Let the butter get hot in the stew-pan; then add the vegetables, and when they begin to brown, add the flour.

Stir for two minutes. Put in the tails, and add the seasoning and stock. Simmer gently three hours.

Serve on a hot dish with gravy strained over them.

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Ox Tails a la Tartare.

- three ox tails,
- two eggs,
- one cupful of bread crumbs,
- salt,
- pepper,
- one quart of stock,
- a bouquet of sweet herbs.

Cut the tails in four-inch pieces, and put them on to boil with the stock and sweet herbs. Let them simmer two hours.

Take up, drain and cool. When cold, dip them in the beaten eggs and in bread crumbs. Fry in boiling fat till a golden brown.

Have Tartare sauce spread on the centre of a cold dish, and arrange the ox tails on this. Garnish with parsley, and serve.

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Haricot of Ox Tails.

- three ox tails,
- two carrots,
- two onions,
- two small white turnips,
- three potatoes,
- three table-spoonfuls of butter,
- two of flour,
- three pints of water and
- salt and pepper to taste.

Cut the tails in pieces about four inches long. Cut the onions very fine, and the carrots, turnips and potatoes into large cubes.

Put the butter, meat and onion in the stew-pan and fry, stirring all the time, until the onions are a golden brown then add the flour, and stir two minutes longer.

Add the water, and when it comes to a boil, skim carefully. Set back where it will simmer.

When it has been cooking one hour, add the carrots and turnips. Cook another hour, and then add the salt, pepper and potatoes. Simmer twenty minutes longer.

Heap the vegetables in the centre of a hot dish, and arrange the tails around them. Pour the gravy over all, and serve.

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Ragout of Mutton.

- three pounds of any of the cheap parts of mutton,
- six table-spoonfuls of butter,
- three table-spoonfuls of flour,
- twelve button onions, or one of the common size;
- one large white turnip, cut into little cubes;
- salt,
- pepper,
- one quart of water and
- a bouquet of sweet herbs.

Cut the meat in small pieces. Put three table-spoonfuls each of butter and flour in the stew-pan and when hot and smooth, add the meat. Stir until a rich brown, and then add water, and set where it will simmer.

Put three table-spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, put in the turnips and onions with a teaspoonful of flour.

Stir all the time until a golden brown; then drain, and put with the meat. Simmer for an hour and a half.

Garnish with rice, toasted bread, plain boiled macaroni or mashed potatoes. Small cubes of potato can be added half an hour before dishing. Serve very hot.

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Ragout of Veal.

Prepare the same as mutton, using one table-spoonful more of butter, and cooking an hour longer.

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Cutlets A la Duchesse.

- two pounds of lamb, mutton or veal cutlets,
- one large cupful of cream,
- one table-spoonful of onion juice,
- four table-spoonfuls of butter,
- one table-spoonfuls of flour,
- two whole eggs,
- the yolks of four more,
- two table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped ham,
- one of lemon juice and
- salt and pepper to taste.

Put two table-spoonfuls of the butter in the frying-pan. Season the cutlets with salt and pepper, and when the butter is hot, put them in it. Fry gently for five minutes, if lamb or mutton; but if veal, put a cover on the pan, and fry very slowly for fifteen minutes. Set away to cool.

Put the remainder of the butter in a small frying-pan, and when hot, stir in the flour. Cook one minute, stirring all the time, and being careful not to brown. Stir in the cream.

Have the ham, the yolks of eggs and the onion and lemon juice beaten together. Stir this mixture into the boiling sauce. Stir for about one minute, and remove from the fire. Season well with pepper and salt.

Dip the cutlets in this sauce, being careful to cover every part, and set away to cool.

When cold, dip them in beaten egg and in bread crumbs. Fry in boiling fat for one minute.

Arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, and have green peas in the centre and cream sauce poured around.

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Cutlets served in Papillotes.

Fold and cut half sheets of thick white paper, about the size of commercial note, so that when opened they will be heart-shaped. Dip them in melted butter and set aside.

After trimming all the fat from lamb or mutton chops, season them with pepper and salt. Put three table-spoonfuls of butter in the frying pan, and when melted, lay in the chops, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes.

Add one teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of lemon juice and one table-spoonful of Halford sauce. Dredge with one heaping table-spoonful of flour, and cook quickly five minutes longer.

Take up the cutlets, and add to the sauce in the pan four table-spoonfuls of glaze and four of water. Stir until the glaze is melted, and set away to cool.

When the sauce is cold, spread it on the cutlets. Now place these, one by one, on one side of the papers, having the bones turned toward the centre. Fold the papers and carefully turn in the edges.

When all are done, place them in a pan, and put into a moderate oven for ten minutes; then place them in a circle, and fill the centre of the dish with thin fried, or French fried, potatoes. Serve very hot. The quantities given above are for six cutlets.

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Veal Cutlets with White Sauce.

- one and a half pounds of cutlets,
- two table-spoonfuls of butter,
- a slice of carrot and
- a small slice of onion.

Put the butter and the vegetables, cut fine, in a sauce-pan. Season the cutlets with salt and pepper, and lay them on the butter and vegetables.

Cover tightly, and cook slowly for half an hour; then take out, and dip in egg and bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat till a golden brown. Or, dip the cutlets in soft butter and then in flour, and broil.

Serve with white sauce poured around. Put a quart of green peas, or points of asparagus, in the centre of the dish, and arrange the cutlets around them. Pour on the sauce. This gives a handsome dish. Or, serve with olive sauce.

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Mutton Cutlets, Crumbed.

Season French chops with salt and pepper, dip them in melted butter, and roll in fine bread crumbs. Broil for eight minutes over a fire not too bright, as the crumbs burn easily. Serve with potato balls heaped in the centre of the dish.

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Mutton Cutlets, Breaded.

Trim the cutlets, and season with salt and pepper. Dip in beaten egg and in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. If three-quarters of an inch thick, they will be done rare in six minutes, and well done in ten.

Arrange in the centre of a hot dish, and pour tomato sauce around them. One pint of sauce is enough for two pounds of cutlets.

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Stewed Steak with Oysters.

- two pounds of rump steak,
- one pint of oysters,
- one table-spoonful of lemon juice,
- three table-spoonfuls of butter,
- one table-spoonful of flour,
- salt,
- pepper,
- one cupful of water.

Wash the oysters in the water, and drain into a stew-pan.

Put this liquor on to heat. As soon as it comes to a boil, skim, and set back.

Put the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot, put in the steak. Cook ten minutes. Take up the steak, and stir the flour into the butter remaining in the pan.

Stir until a dark brown. Add the oyster liquor, and boil one minute. Season with salt and pepper.

Put back the steak, cover the pan, and simmer half an hour; then add the oysters and lemon juice. Boil one minute.

Serve on a hot dish with points of toast for a garnish.